WHAT IS VITAMIN C?
Vitamin C or L-ascorbic acid is a naturally occurring antioxidant found in citrus fruits, strawberries, cantaloupe, papaya, broccoli, and leafy greens. One of the most known vitamins, vitamin C is important for the growth and repair of our tissues and for preventing cell damage from oxidative stress or free radicals. Unfortunately, our bodies are unable to synthesize our own vitamin C, nor do our bodies store it for a long time. Therefore, it is an essential component of our daily diets. However, even with the appropriate amount of vitamin C in our diet, only a small portion of it makes its way to our skin. So, the best way for our skin to get some much-needed vitamin C is topically through skincare products.

WHAT DO THEY DO FOR THE SKIN?
Topical vitamin C use has been shown to have potent benefits for the skin, the chief of which is protection against sun damage. Ultraviolet (UV) light from the sun causes the skin cells to produce reactive oxygen species (ROS) or free radicals, which can create a chain reaction that damages the skin. This can lead to inflammation, sunburns, skin aging, and skin cancers.

Sunscreen is crucial in preventing UV-induced damage to the skin, but this only blocks 55% of the free radicals produced by UV exposure. To maximize UV protection, it’s best to use sunscreen in combination with topical vitamin C. Antioxidants like vitamin C help neutralize the free radicals and prevent damage from occurring.

Not only does vitamin C help prevent sun damage, but it is also essential for synthesizing collagen, an important protein found in our bones, hair, muscles, tendons, ligaments, and the skin. Under our skin, it acts as a scaffold with its network of fibers supporting the elasticity and strength of our skin. This contributes to the plump and youthful appearance of the skin. Our cells naturally make collagen, however, this production decreases with age. Combined with UV-induced free radicals that break down collagen, the skin can lose its elasticity, leading to sagging and wrinkle formation. Vitamin C helps both prevent the breakdown of collagen and stimulates its synthesis increasing collagen production in both young and aged human skin.

Aside from protecting the skin from the sun and its antiaging properties. vitamin C also brightens the skin by preventing the melanocytes in our skin from producing the pigment melanin. Dark spots or hyperpigmentation can form after sun exposure, after pimples or wounds heal, after skin irritation, taking certain medications, and hormonal changes. Vitamin C can help fade the dark spots and even out your skin. Its anti-inflammatory activity can be helpful in calming skin conditions like acne and rosacea, as well as promoting wound healing.

Overall, vitamin C is a wonderful active ingredient to incorporate into your skincare regimen to keep your skin healthy, glowing, and youthful.

HOW TO INCORPORATE VITAMIN C INTO YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE?
With its antioxidant properties, Vitamin C or L-ascorbic acid is an unstable molecule, especially when exposed to light. Because of this, many vitamin C derivatives have been synthesized to be more stable. However, not all the derivatives are physiologically active and effective. Check the ingredient list before you buy and look for magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP). It is the best alternative form of vitamin C compared to L-ascorbic acid, as it is more stable yet easily absorbed into the skin and has a hydrating effect with all the benefits of L-ascorbic acid. Other derivatives to look out for include ascorbyl-6-palmitate, disodium isostearyl 2-0-L-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbic acid sulfate, and tetraiso-palmitoyl ascorbic acid.

A lot of skincare products can have L-ascorbic acid, or its derivatives included in their formulation from toners, and serums to moisturizers. If brightening, antiaging, and sun protection are your main skin goals, then it would be best to incorporate Vitamin C as a serum, as they have the highest concentrations of L-ascorbic acid or its derivatives. Keep in mind though that the concentration of vitamin C has been shown to have a proportional effect but only up to 20%.

Vitamin C works well with many other active ingredients, including vitamin E. A combination of 0.5% ferulic acid, 15% vitamin C and 1% vitamin E increase the efficacy of vitamin C eight-fold. This triple combo is great for reducing acute and chronic photodamage and preventing skin cancer. Soy and licorice are great ingredients that work with vitamin C for brightening dark spots.

Vitamin C is largely safe to use, though it may result in some minor reactions, such as discoloration of the skin and hair. On rare occasions, it can cause stinging, redness, irritation, and dryness, especially if you have sensitive skin. This could be easily treated with the use of a moisturizer and starting with lower concentrations.

References:

Al-Niaimi, et al. “Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications” 2017
Enescu, et al. “A review of topical vitamin C derivatives and their efficacy” 2021
Haywood, et al. “Sunscreens Inadequately Protect Against Ultraviolet-A-Induced Free Radicals in Skin: Implications for Skin Aging and Melanoma?” 2003
Murray. “A topical antioxidant solution containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid provides protection for human skin against damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation” 2008
Telang, Pumori. “Vitamin C in dermatology” 2013